How to Minimize Pore Appearance
By: Kelly Robinson, LFS
Pore size is a very common concern among teens and adults. The market for products that minimize the appearance of pores has grown over the past decade as consumers are willing to try almost anything to get those little dots on their face disappear. The following is a guide to explain why large pores happen and what can be done to minimize their appearance on the skin and prevent them from becoming larger.
Why do we get large pores?
Large pores are often associated with the amount of oil that the skin produces on a regular basis. Puberty often starts an increase in oil production as androgen hormones are produced in the body. The most common area for enlarged pores is what is referred to as the “T-zone”. This area includes the chin, nose, inner cheeks, and forehead. The body will naturally produce more oil in these areas compared to the rest of the face, resulting in larger follicles. It is similar to the difference between a garden hose and a fire hose. Genetics also play a role in your skin. If you have a close relative, like a parent, grandparent, aunt, or uncle with large pores or oily skin, this is most likely the reason that you have the skin that you do. Pore size can also increase with age and sun damage as the amounts of collagen and elastin begin to decrease in the skin. As the face ages, the rate that we shed dead skin cells starts to slow down, creating a dull or thick look. The natural shedding process can also be slowed by excess oil production. So what can you do to minimize the appearance of your pores?
Sunscreen
Surprised? Wearing an SPF30 as part of your daily routine has an extra benefit for pores. Sun will accelerate the breakdown of healthy skin tissue, causing pores to appear larger over time. Adding a facial sunscreen to your skin care can prevent some of the damage caused by ultraviolet light. Plus, some of the ingredients that are used to minimize the look of pores can also make you more sensitive to the sun. Look for a sunscreen that is specifically made for the face and is labeled “non-comedogenic”. This means that it will not clog your pores.
Exfoliation
Exfoliation is the process of helping your skin shed off that upper layer of dead cells. Exfoliates are usually broken down into two main catagories. Physical exfoliates like scrubs, brushes, or gommages, and chemical exfoliates like Alpha Hydroxy Acids or retinol. Using exfoliates on a regular basis can help in multiple ways. First, removing the buildup of dead skin from the top can give the skin a smoother appearance overall. This is a similar to sanding rough wood. Another benefit of exfoliation is the stimulation of the cells underneath that dead layer on top. Stimulating the skin underneath can help rev up collagen production and help stimulate your natural moisturizing factors. Natural moisturizing factors can help “plump up” your skin by keeping it hydrated (not oily). Exfoliation can also help keep your pores clear of old dead skin cells, giving the oil in your skin a clear path out of the follicle. When starting with any exfoliate, start just 2-3 times per week as your skin gets accustomed to the process.
Chemical exfoliation
This category of exfoliate has shown to work very well for refining pores. Chemical exfoliates work by either dissolving dead skin cells, dissolving the “glue” that keeps the cells stuck to each other, or stimulating the skin to shed off faster on its own. The two most common chemical exfoliates are Glycolic and Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is found in several over-the-counter face washes and creams and help clear out pores from inside of the follicle. Glycolic acid works by loosening the bond between dead skin cells to help them shed off easier.
Word of warning when choosing a scrub
When choosing a scrub for the face, make sure to stay away from scrubs that contain natural plant based exfoliates, such as ground walnut powder, apricot kernels, or any type of hard shell. Under a microscope, these exfoliates tend to have sharp, jagged edges that can irritate skin, especially acne prone skin. Physical exfoliates that are safer for the skin include refined magnesium crystals, micro beads, jojoba esters, refined sugar, or refined salt. Sugar and salt scrubs will most likely be found in an oil-type base to keep the crystals from dissolving too quickly.
Retinols
Retinols can be found in every category of skin care, including mild amounts in over-the-counter products, to stronger prescription strengths. Retinols work by stimulating the live cells in the upper layer of the skin, making those cells stronger and pushing old skin cells off. Retinols have shown to be very effective in reducing the appearance of not only pores, but also acne, fine lines, and mild pigmentation issues. Brands like Olay and Neutragena are generally considered a gentle way to introduce your skin to a retinol. Eventually, you can work up to using a stronger retinol to increase the overall benefit to the skin. Stronger retinols are usually found in doctor’s offices in brands such as ZO Skinhealth, Obagi, and Skin Medica, to name a few. They usually require guidance before using, due to their stronger nature and possible side effects. When you start using a medical or prescription grade retinol, it is common to start out gradually and have peeling, flaking, and sensitivity in the first 1 to 2 months of using it. It is also not recommended to use a retinol during pregnancy or breast feeding.
Professional treatments
Chemical peels, Microdermabrasion, and several other professional treatments have shown to be effective in reducing the appearance of pores as well. Extractions (professional pimple popping) can help to temporarily clear out clogged pores while minimizing the risk of infection and inflammation that can happen from squeezing your pores out at home. Chemical peels encourage the top layer of skin to shed off and stimulates new skin cells underneath. There are also laser treatments that have been shown to be effective for minimizing pores. As with any of these treatments, it is best to combine them with proper skin care at home for maximum benefit.
Medication
If you are still having trouble with your pore size or questions about your skin in general, make an appointment with a dermatologist. They may be able to prescribe specialty medications that are stronger than over the counter products.
Primers
Makeup primers can be a great way of softening features on the skin and helping makeup to stay in place longer. Primers work by laying a breathable layer onto the skin that fills in crevices such as fine lines and large pores. This creates a smooth base for your foundation or concealer, minimizing the look of the pores. The effect is temporary, but works well for many.
Realistic Expectations
Even with following the best routine, pores will almost never shrink down to the point of not seeing them anymore. You can minimize their appearance, but pores in the T-zone tend to be naturally larger in almost everyone after the onset of puberty. If you really want to get an idea of what other people see on your skin, stand an arms-length distance in the mirror. Most people are not going to be any closer to your face than this on a daily basis. If you are having to lean in close to the mirror to see something on your skin, chances are that no one else is seeing what you are concerned with.
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