Are you using your skin care products correctly? Chances are that you aren’t.
By: Kelly Robinson, LFS
As an Aesthetician of 13 years, the most common skin issues I treat are acne, rosacea, dry skin, pigmentation, skin sensitivity, sun damage, and general skin aging. While we can treat these skin issues with several different types of services and procedures, I find that clients receive the most benefit when we delve into their daily skin care routine. Many already have tried “everything” or multiple things without improvement in their symptoms. Often, I’m told that a product or prescription was tried, but that “it just didn’t work” or that it was stopped because of side effects. With a little education and tweaking, developing a skin care routine frequently not only yields results, but also empowers clients to make better purchasing decisions in the future.
Below are a few tips that I commonly share with my clients. Each person’s skin is different; so, this is meant as a general guide. If you have specific questions or concerns about your skin or your skin routine, please schedule an appointment with me or another skin professional.
A skin care routine is like an exercise routine
I have found that the best analogy for skin care is comparing it to an exercise routine. Your skin care professional is your personal trainer. The results of either a skin care or an exercise routine vary depending on several circumstances. For example, 20 minutes on a treadmill once a week is not going to yield the same results as spending several hours a day training for the triathlon or bodybuilding competition. There are basic exercises and advanced exercises. Like the muscle soreness often felt when a new weight lifting routine is started, there are some skin products that initially can make your skin feel uncomfortable. The only one who can decide how much time, effort, money and discomfort you want in your skin care routine is you. Once this is established, a skin care professional can tailor a routine customized for you.
Consistency is Key
Just like the high-tech treadmill or expensive gym membership that someone may purchase to get their body into better shape, it doesn’t matter how great a product or skin care line is if it is not used consistently. Often clients will recount spending hundreds or even thousands of dollars on skin products, but then it is uncovered that the products were used inconsistently or incorrectly. This often creates “cosmetic graveyards” under the sink. A skin care product will not work effectively if it is not the right product for you or if it is not used properly.
Exercising occasionally with a personal trainer is akin to getting intermittent skin care services such as facials, chemical peels, laser treatments, etc. These services are great, but the results of intermittent sessions will not last long if it not supported by daily skin care. Great skin starts, and ends, with great skin care. You should have a consistent morning and evening skin care routine. I frequently emphasize the need for routine over expensive product.
When I ask a client how much time they gave a product before deciding that it didn’t work, the answer can vary on average from 3 days to 6 months. If you start weight training today, you will not develop big strong muscles after just a couple of days or even weeks. Rather, it takes months of proper training. Most skin care takes a minimum of 4 weeks to see noticeable difference. It can take up to 18 weeks of proper and consistent use to determine how well a product is working. This is because of the way that your skin proliferates.
The very top layer of your skin, called the epidermis, is comprised of multiple layers of skin cells. The epidermis produces new cells from the bottom. Eventually the new cells make their way to the top and are shed off. The time it takes for the new cells to reach the surface and shed off is the turnover rate. In healthy young skin, that occurs in approximately 4 weeks. As we get older, that turnover rate slows down. A skin care product effect may target different depths of the skin and this determines how long it will take to see results. Retinols, for example, are a great treatment for acne and anti-aging. Retinols target the lowest layer of the epidermis; so, it can take weeks to see results.
Read the labels!
Did you know that it takes about 15 to 20 minutes for a sunscreen to take full effect? If you didn’t, you are not alone. The directions on every sunscreen bottle recommend that the product be apply at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. Most people wait until they are out at the pool or beach to apply. So even if SPF 100 is applied, the sunscreen is not protecting your skin fully for the first 15 minutes. This is just one example of a product that is not given a fair chance because of improper use.
Another example is medications used to treat acne. Since many acne treatments can be drying to the skin, directions commonly recommend increasing product use gradually. However, often patients are eager for results and skip the recommended gradual start. This can lead to dry skin, discomfort, and other side effects which results in discontinuation the product. One other mistake commonly made with acne medications is using the product intermittently as a spot treatment. Most acne treatments include directions that state that the product should be applied to the entire affected area (whole face, excluding around eyes and lips). It is important to take the time to read the directions and to contact your skin care specialist if you develop side effects or have questions.
Know thyself
Skin type and condition are other factors that are commonly misunderstood, and often self-diagnosed incorrectly. A person with oily skin who develops flaking around the nose and eyebrows may treat this “dry skin” with moisturizers, but the symptoms worsen. This is because their skin isn’t truly dry, and so treating with moisturizers doesn’t solve the problem. The flaking may be caused by a variety of skin conditions that are easily treatable once properly diagnosed.
Many clients self-diagnose their skin as sensitive, which can mean several different things. Some clients will describe skin as sensitive because they have acne or rosacea. In some cases, the person is experiencing sensitivity as a side effect to a product, but that is not their skin type. Most people do not have truly sensitive skin and can tolerate more than they think they can. If you are having trouble figuring out what’s really going on with your skin, see an Aesthetician or a Dermatologist. It’s much easier buying products if you know your correct skin type and the specific condition that you are trying to treat.
Putting it altogether
Whether you using over-the-counter skin care products, medical-grade cosmeceuticals, or prescriptions these guidelines can help you fine tune your routine for better results. Consistency is important as is allowing a product a minimum of a 4 to 6-week trial. Read and follow the product directions. If you develop side effects, rather than stopping the product see you skin care specialist for help. If you are unsure of your skin type or what specific skin condition you are trying to treat, or simply are unsure how to navigate the overwhelming number of product choices, see a skin care professional first. Schedule your appointment today.
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